I love transferrable skills. It’s one of the reasons I do my best to talk about understanding food rather than memorizing recipes. If you understand food, then you can take an idea and move it across an entire spectrum of entrees. Like, for example, the idea of including onion in a recipe without really including onion, an idea I got from this Salt & Fat post on Tomato-butter sauce and transferred to black bean tacos.

The results? Stellar, and without any onion bits to dissuade a finicky 13 year old (or any texture eater) from gobbling up dinner.

(And before you suggest just leaving out the onions, it’s probably best you move along. You can’t have black beans without red onions. It’s just not done.)

Black Bean Tacos
(feeds 3 with plenty of leftovers)

Ingredients:

• 28 oz cooked black beans
• 8 oz water
• 1/2 large red onion
• At least 9 corn tortillas
• 16 oz uncooked long-grain rice
• 4 oz shredded Monterey jack cheese
• 12 oz cup shredded cheddar cheese
  • Note: you can alter the ratio of cheddar to jack cheeses depending on how sharp or mild you want your cheese sauce. You just want to have 16 oz. of cheese, total
• 1 cup (8 oz) half-n-half
• olive oil (about a tablespoon)
• a couple big cloves of garlic
• kosher salt
• black pepper
• ground cumin
• hot sauce (optional)
• cayenne (optional)
• lime juice (optional)

Supplies:

• Large skillet
• Small sauce pan
• Large pot with a tight-fitting lid

Begin by making the rice. Boil three cups of water in the large pot, add your rice, stir about a minute, cover, and reduce the heat to low. Set a kitchen timer for 20 minutes.

Put a splash of olive oil in your skillet and set it on the stove over medium-high heat. While it heats, cut your onion half in half. Set the pieces in the skillet ring-side-down so they begin to caramelize and release their flavor into the oil. While they’re cooking, go ahead and mince the garlic. After the onions have cooked about two minutes, add the minced garlic and give it a stir for about 15 seconds, then add your beans and about half a cup of water (4 oz). The water will help the beans heat evenly, prevent them from burning, distribute all your flavors, and provide a nice sauce once you’re done. Let them heat through for a couple minutes, then reduce the heat to simmer. Stir in a generous pinch of salt, a couple grinds of pepper, and a generous sprinkle of cumin. Give the mix a taste. If it doesn’t taste enough like food from your favorite Mexican restaurant, sprinkle in a little more cumin. At this point you could also add some cayenne pepper for heat and a splash of lime juice to bring a little brightness to the mix.

Note: as you finish out the remaining ingredients, keep tasting your beans. If too much of the water simmers out, the flavors will become too concentrated and the beans will get dry. If you need to, feel free to add an extra splash or two of water. Also, feel free to doctor the ingredients as you go. Don’t be afraid to play!

When there’s about a minute left on the timer, heat your tortillas (I use the microwave) and store them in a clean tea towel (paper towels will do just fine). Then set the remaining sauce pot on the stove over medium heat and add your half-n-half.

When the timer beeps, pull the rice off the burner, give it a stir, put the lid back on and set the rice aside. Begin sloooooowly adding the cheese to the half-n-half, a big pinch at a time, and give one or two stirs with each addition. After you’ve added all the cheese, stir slowly and smoothly until it’s blended to a sauce.

To serve, spoon rice and beans into a tortilla, set it on a plate and smother with cheese sauce. Bask in your family’s loving gaze and applause.

Pan-seared tilapia with bacon and shallots (links to a previous post)

A: We’re all scared of fish. Undercooked, fish of any but the best quality ends up cold, clammy and unappetizing. Overcooked, it falls apart or ends up chewy. Overcooked fish also tends to extrude its fishiest chemicals, which is one of the reasons reheating fish can be so difficult. But a pan-fried fish can be a wonderful thing. Simple, delicate, delicious. To successfully pan-fry fish, it’s important to consider the following: method, variety, fat, heat, hardware.

Method
I’m going to make the assumption that when you ask about pan-frying a fish, you’re talking about frying fish in a skillet with a little bit of oil, like you might sear tuna. The considerations I talk about here will work for any kind of frying, but fish usually doesn’t stick if you go with a traditional pan-fry method: a quarter to half an inch of oil in a heavy skillet, battered fish fried on one side, then the other. Fish you might find at the local southern diner comes to mind. If you ARE talking about a traditional pan fry, I’ve included some batter recipes at the bottom and some simple techniques you can use to pan fry or deep fry your fish to perfection.

Variety
Fish come in all shapes and sizes. It’s a no-brainer, I know, but it has a lot do with how well it will stand up to searing in a skillet.

In general, fish have much less connective tissue than other animals, and many fish have much less connective tissue than others. Connective tissue helps hold muscle fibers together and it melts away under high heat. Your fish probably flakes apart in the pan because you’ve cooked it too long, or it didn’t have much connective tissue to begin with.

The amount of connective tissue a fish has depends largely on the life it leads beneath the waves. Fish that move a lot, like tuna and salmon, have a great deal of connective tissue because their muscles are highly developed and are in constant or near-constant use. Fish that don’t have to move very often have less connective tissue, and fish that rarely move at all have almost none, relatively speaking. So, take a moment and think about the grouper spending its days moving gently to and fro among the coral reefs in shallow waters. It’s going to have less connective tissue than the tuna or mahi-mahi, but will probably have more than, say, bass, who spend ninety-percent of their time floating still beneath downed logs or rock ledges.

Fish with a high amount of connective tissue are going to stand up well to pan searing. Fish with little connective tissue are better suited to grilling (using a fish basket), poaching, steaming or baking.

Fat
No one likes to talk about fat. It’s become an ugly word, but if you’re pan searing, whether it be fish or steak or vegetables, you’re going to need some fat. White fish like cod work marvelously with butter, but butter has a very low smoke point. Olive oil, too, has a fairly low smoke point, but the flavor it can impart to certain fish is fantastic. What I would recommend is mixing an equal part canola or other high-heat, low-flavor oil with the butter or olive oil to help raise the overall smoke point. Raising the smoke point will allow you to work at higher temperatures which might be a key to your sticky problem.

Heat
The challenge with cooking any protein is managing heat. Specifically, getting the middle heated through without burning the exterior. They key? Let the meat or fish spend a little time outside the fridge, right there on the counter. I always try to allow any protein I’m cooking to come as close to room temperature as I feel comfortable. I’ll let steaks rest, salted, for about 15 minutes on the counter. I wait the same time with chicken. Fish, depending on the thickness, might not need as much time, but certainly five or ten minutes will help immensely.

When searing fish, you’re going to work hot and fast. I would suggest searing at about medium-high (it will vary some, depending on your oven), and for no more than a couple minutes on each side, depending on how thick the fish is and the variety you have. I’d say no more than a minute per side on thin fillets of delicate fish.

Hardware
Turning fish is next to impossible without a fish spatula, especially if the fish is delicate, like the grouper I mentioned above. If you cook fish a lot, I’d recommend buying one. They’re long and thin and designed to be able to support the whole fillet. If you’re like me, and don’t cook a lot of fish, then just keep two spatulas on hand and use them in tandem when you want to turn the fillet.

I’d also invest in a good, even-heating pan. You can get incredible deals on cookware at Amazon.com.

So now you’re ready to cook

Ingredients

• Two thick grouper fillets
• Kosher salt
• fresh black pepper
• Sliced lemon
• One clove of garlic

1. Put about 1/2 a tablespoon butter and 1/2 a tablespoon canola oil in a medium-sized skillet (it’ll need to be big enough to hold both fillets). Set the skillet over medium-high heat.
2. While the oil heats, mince the garlic and sprinkle the fillets with salt.
3. Add the garlic to the oil and let it sizzle a few seconds, then place the fillets into the oil, skin side up.
   • (Note: by placing the fillets in the skillet flesh-side down, you’re allowing some of the naturally occuring fat in the fish to mingle with the oil in the pan, bringing some extra flavor to it. You’re also going to cook the most fragile side of the fish while its connective tissue is strongest)
4. After a couple minutes, use your fish spatula to flip the fillets, and cook them the same amount of time on the other side
5. Plate, sprinkle with pepper and hit them with a dash of lemon juice

The traditional fry
There are two variations on the traditional fried fish I’m familiar with: catfish, because I’m from the south, and shrimp, because shrimp tastes good.

Fried catfish:
Two catfish fillets

batter:
12 oz beer
1.5 cups flour + 1 cup flour
.5 tsp salt

Put one cup flour in a shallow dish. In a large bowl, mix together the remaining flour, the salt, and the beer. Heat about 1/2 inch oil in a heavy skillet. Pull out the catfish fillets, pat them dry, then dredge them through the flour. Dunk them briefly in the batter, and lay them into the hot oil. Cook about 90 seconds per side, serve with lemon and tartar sauce, corn bread with honey and cole slaw.

Fried shrimp
About a dozen large shrimp, peeled and deveined

breading and batter
.5 cup buttermilk
1.5 cups panko breadcrumbs
.5 tsp paprika
.5 tbl garlic powder (or less, to taste)
.5 tsp ground ginger
.5 tsp salt
black pepper to taste

Heat .5 inches of oil in a heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Pat the shrimp dry and dunk them in the buttermilk before dredging them through the dry ingredient mix. Toss them in the oil, and let them fry for no more than 90 seconds on each side. Drain on paper towels a couple moments, then enjoy.

Do you have a question about food or cooking? Drop me a line and I’ll do my best to answer it in a future edition of Burning Questions.

• 1 small sweet potato
• 2 carrots
• 1/4 red onion
• 1 pkg rice noodles
• @2 cups skim milk (or coconut milk for more traditional flavor)
• @1 tablespoon green Thai curry paste
• A little salt
• A little oil

Cook the noodles according the package instructions. While they cook, peel the sweet potato, and dice the sweet potato, onion section and carrots. Sprinkle the vegetables with a pinch of kosher salt. then saute vegetables over medium-high heat until the sweet potato begins to brown. Add the milk and curry paste, reduce heat to low, then stir to combine. Cover with lid.

The curry should be done about the same time as the noodles. Serve the noodles in a bowl, cover with a generous helping of the curry, then top with a few spinach leaves and bean sprouts for color and crunch.

sauteed kale salad with whole wheat penne pasta and great northern beans

Just before January 1, I resolved to eat better. A glimpse of myself in the JC Penney dressing room mirror convinced me that I had to do something. Not something drastic, not something quick, just something in general. Taking a prompt from Mark Bittman, I resolved to become vegetarian before 6pm (I don’t think I have the energy to go vegan).

This resolution brings up a couple problems. First, I don’t really know how to cook vegetarian. It takes a slightly different mindset than what I’m used to. There’s no central protein around which to build a meal. In fact, vegetarian eating tends to encourage grazing. A snack here and there, and at dinner time, several dishes from which to pick and choose. The second problem is much more practical. I can’t take leftovers for lunch. Garlic chicken thighs don’t become vegetables just because I take them out of the fridge and they’re fully cooked. I find myself having to come up with recipes and dishes that are easy to make, that keep well, and that I can transform across a couple days into delicious, reasonably healthy lunches. I’m hoping the reasonably can be dropped as I become more comfortable with the new menu.

For my first go, I thought I’d try to create a bean salad that I could use in a number of dishes. it worked, and I’m happy to report that great northern beans in what amounts to a heated balsamic vinaigrette are utterly fantastic and extremely versatile.

Great northern bean salad

Beans:

• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 cloves garlic (3 for extra flavor)
• 1 medium shallot
• 16 oz. cooked great northern beans, drained and rinsed
• 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt,
• 1/8 teaspoon ground white pepper
• 1 teaspoon dried oregano
• 1/4 to 1/2 cup pasta water

Pasta:

• 1 package spinach rotini
• 1 1/2 tablespoons kosher salt

Cook the pasta as per the directions on the package, just make sure you salt your water (1 1/2 tablespoons for the recommended water amount on the package). While the pasta cooks, heat good quality extra virgin olive oil over medium heat in a large skillet. As it heats, mince the garlic and shallot. Toss them into the pan and let them saute for a couple minutes, until the garlic just begins to brown. Watch carefully, though. If the garlic begins to burn, it’s too late.

Add the beans (yes, canned is okay), the salt and the oregano, stir until the beans are heated through, add the vinegar, let it sizzle a couple seconds, then add the pasta water and the pepper.

Toss with the pasta and you’ve made meal one. (When I made this dish, I used the whole wheat penne we had in the pantry. If I did it again, I probably would use a spinach pasta since the birch colored beans would offset nicely against the dark green pasta.)

For lunch the second day, I sauteed kale, tossed the cooked kale with the bean and pasta mixture and had an amazing lunch. And sauteed greens are about as easy a thing as you can make:

Again, heat a tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil over medium high. When the oil begins to shimmer, but before it begins to smoke, add about three good-sized portions of kale (or other green). Add two healthy pinches of kosher salt, and use a wooden spoon to shove the kale around the pan to ensure even cooking (for those writing down measurements, figure four packed cups of kale, a teaspoon of kosher salt). When the kale has cooked down some–probably about half its original volume, add some lemon juice, and toss with a cup of your pasta salad. Seriously awesome.