You haven’t given them any recipes
Who needs recipes?
Your readers might like one or two. You know, that’s why people come to a cooking blog. For recipes.
They shouldn’t.
No?
No. Besides, I’m not very good with recipes. Mine are always slap-dash and imprecise.
Then why should they bother?
They should bother so they can learn how to cook.
So what are you waiting for?

If I’m being honest, I can say I’m a descent cook. I make food good enough to win a departmental cooking contest, but I’m certainly no Grant Achatz. I’m not even an experienced line cook. But I’ve been fortunate to have a patient wife who’s willing to encourage my cooking, even when it doesn’t go well, and I know enough to pay attention so I can learn from my mistakes. A big one I run into time and again? Cooking cold chicken thighs too fast so they’re under-done in the center.

I know what the problem is: cold chicken thighs take longer to heat through than even cool chicken does. And they have that cold bone in the center, acting like a heat sink. So I put them in the pan, sear them, and when the skin’s nearly perfect they’re still raw in the center.

Bummer.

What’s the secret? Start with chicken thighs that have been allowed to come closer to room temperature, or finish them off in the oven. Either one works all right, though starting closer to room temperature gets better results.

And I’ll get to some recipes, I swear. I just think it’s important to mention a few things before we go there.

Heat, Moisture and Time

For me, cooking comes down to these three elements. When cooking, you’re trying to heat food without losing all its moisture. At least I am. Don’t heat enough, though, and it’s raw. Heat too much and it’s burnt. Proteins cooked too high and too long end up rubbery and tough. Vegetables cooked too long and too dry become leathery or brittle. Pasta cooked too long disintegrates. Cakes and breads turn to carbon. They have for me, at least.

The thing is, knowing the various cooking methods can pull you back from the brink of a bitter disaster, and just might salvage an otherwise inedible dinner.

Cooking methods: wet and dry

If you pay attention to recipes, you’ll see the same cooking methods come up over and over again. You’ll see some of them stand alone, and others you’ll see used in conjunction with one another. The important thing is to notice. Notice when a high, dry cooking method is paired with a long, low wet one, or vice-versa. Pay attention to how people use bake and roast (in my experience, it’s mostly about temperature, but I am probably dead wrong about that). When you’re working with food, figure out how sturdy it is. Brussels sprouts are going to stand up to a par-boil much better than Ritz crackers could ever hope. But bagel dough? Boil away.

Because I cook when I get home from work, and because I want my family to eat closer to 6:30 than 8:00, I tend to rely on fast cooking methods. For the most part that means lots of cooking energy or very high heat: boil, steam, grill/broil, sauté.

Boil
I hope you know what it means to boil. If you don’t, go fill a pot with water, put it on high heat on the stove and don’t look at it. If you watch the pot, it’ll never boil.

And old wife told me that.

Anyway, boiling can be a remarkably fast cooking method because the water currents and constant motion mean hot water molecules are smashing into cool food molecules, imparting some of their energy, then racing off to gather more energy. It’s also an incredibly violent process and only hardiest foods can stand up to it. Think beans, sturdy vegetables, starches and dry pastas. Boiling won’t brown food, though, because it’s not hot enough. For browning, you need to go with direct heat and a little fat.

Steam
Heat water until it evaporates and then don’t let it escape. Steaming is a quick, efficient method of cooking delicate foods like fish. It’s also great for imparting even heat pretty quickly because a lot of hot molecules are coming in contact with the food. Steaming heats a little quicker than boiling because condensing water vapor releases some energy in the form of heat (it’s an exothermic reaction).

Steaming doesn’t get hot enough to brown food either.

Sauté
Sauté comes from the French, and means, literally, to jump. The idea here is that food comes into contact with a pan so hot the surface water in the food immediately steams away and causes the food to ‘jump’ in the pan. It’s the European equivalent of a stir fry. To sauté, make sure you have some fat in the pan (oil, butter, etc.), get the pan piping hot, and toss in the ingredients. The key here is to make sure the ingredients have enough room to let the steam escape. If they’re too crowded, they’ll end up steaming, not sautéing, and you won’t get the wonderful caramelization of sugars or the browning of amino acids.

When sautéing vegetables, it’s important to keep them moving. When searing meat, poultry or fish, you’ll want to let it sit on the pan long enough to get a good crust on it.

So now what?

Now you can cook. Seriously. Don’t believe me? Try these simple dinners:

Rosemary and sage-scented pork roast with potatoes and carrots

This is a variation on the pork roast from the salt post. See how this stuff fits together? (You’ll also see now what I meant when I called my recipes slap-dash).

rosemary and sage scented pork roast with carrots and potatoes

Ingredients

• Pork loin
• 6 Yukon gold potatoes
• 5 carrots
• Kosher salt
• Rosemary
• Sage
• Butter
• Olive oil

Supplies

• A large skillet
• A large roasting pan
• A splatter guard

Take the roast out of the fridge, salt it, and set it aside in a container on the counter. Begin preheating the oven to 300 degrees F. While the pork sits and the oven comes to temperature, cut up the six potatoes and break apart the carrots. Toss them into the roasting dish, sprinkle them with a couple pinches of salt and set it aside.

Place the pan on the oven over high heat and add about a teaspoon of olive oil. When it gets hot (the olive oil will look a little shimmery), lay the roast in the pan, cover with the splatter guard, and leave it alone for about a minute. Turn and sear each side about 60 seconds, then transfer it to the roasting pan. Make sure the roast is down in the potatoes and touches the bottom of the pan. Sprinkle in a few pats of butter (two tablespoons, total), a couple sprigs of rosemary, and a few sage leaves. Cover in aluminum foil and slide it into the oven for two hours.

The next night you can use the leftover pork to make pulled-pork sandwiches. Delicious and amazingly easy, especially if someone’s in the middle of painting your kitchen.

Notice how in that example we used high, dry heat to brown the meat and then steam to finish cooking it? In this next dish, we do just the opposite.

Skirt steak with collard greens, potatoes and carrots

Skirt steak with collard greens and seared potatoes

Ingredients

• Skirt steak
• 16oz collard greens
• ½ medium onion
• A few strips of bacon
• Kosher salt
• Red pepper flakes
• Leftover potatoes and carrots from the roast

Supplies

• Large skillet
• Large stock pot
• Splatter guard

Again, take the meat out of the fridge and salt it. Set it on the counter so it’ll come to room temperature. Dice the onion and chop the bacon. Put the big stock pot on a big burner and turn the heat to medium. Add the bacon to the cool pot.^_1

Once the bacon has just begun to brown, add the onion. Stir it around a couple times and then let it sit.

While it sits, microwave the leftover potatoes and carrots a couple times. I used 1 minute, 15 seconds, twice.

Now, add the collard greens to the pot, give them a stir and then add enough water to just cover the greens. Increase the heat to high and bring the pot to a boil. Once it’s boiling, reduce the heat to medium and toss in a couple tablespoons of kosher salt and a few shakes of red pepper flakes. Cover the greens with a tight fitting lid and let them boil away about 10 minutes.

When the 10 minutes it up, remove the lid, but don’t do anything else.

Place the skillet on another burner over medium-high heat. Add a pat of butter. When the butter begins to brown, gently lay the skirt steak into the pan, cover with the splatter guard and let it sear for about 2 minutes. When that’s done, turn it over and let the other side sear about 2 minutes. When that’s done, move the steak to a plate and let it rest.

Now add the potatoes and carrots right into the skillet with the beef juices and browned butter. You can stir them a couple times to mix everything together, but we’re really looking for a good crust on some of the potatoes and carrots to lend some texture and taste variety, bite to bite. So just let them sit there in the pan a few minutes, then bring them off the heat.

Plate the collard greens using a slotted spoon, pile on the potatoes, and finally cut the skirt steak against the grain and place a few pieces on top.

Congratulations
You just seared potatoes that had been steamed to cook them through (the opposite of what we did with the pork roast before), boiled a hardy vegetable and seared a steak to perfection.

You have just used sautéing, boiling and steaming to cook a couple really delicious meals.

Oh….you want substitutions? Fine. You could use the same method to cook a beef roast instead of a pork roast. Or to steam potatoes on their own. If you boil other greens, like kale, don’t let them go as long. Boiling kale takes about five minutes. Instead of skirt steak you could sear chicken breasts. Or, you remember those chicken thighs from the very beginning?

Salt the chicken thighs and let them come very close to room temperature. Add a couple table spoons of olive oil to a pan, get it piping hot (medium-high should do it), and set the thighs in the pan, skin-side down. Let them sear about four minutes, then flip them over and let them sear another four minutes. Then add a half cup of white wine and a couple bay leaves. Bring it to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer for about 10 minutes. Serve with some crusty bread and Spanish rice.

Congratulations, you’ve just added another cooking method to your repertoire: braising.

1. Adding the bacon to a cool pot and letting it cook as it also comes to temperature will render more fat out of the bacon. The fat will lend its flavor to the collard greens. Plus, the bacon will end up good and crispy, if you let it cook long enough.

I love transferrable skills. It’s one of the reasons I do my best to talk about understanding food rather than memorizing recipes. If you understand food, then you can take an idea and move it across an entire spectrum of entrees. Like, for example, the idea of including onion in a recipe without really including onion, an idea I got from this Salt & Fat post on Tomato-butter sauce and transferred to black bean tacos.

The results? Stellar, and without any onion bits to dissuade a finicky 13 year old (or any texture eater) from gobbling up dinner.

(And before you suggest just leaving out the onions, it’s probably best you move along. You can’t have black beans without red onions. It’s just not done.)

Black Bean Tacos
(feeds 3 with plenty of leftovers)

Ingredients:

• 28 oz cooked black beans
• 8 oz water
• 1/2 large red onion
• At least 9 corn tortillas
• 16 oz uncooked long-grain rice
• 4 oz shredded Monterey jack cheese
• 12 oz cup shredded cheddar cheese
  • Note: you can alter the ratio of cheddar to jack cheeses depending on how sharp or mild you want your cheese sauce. You just want to have 16 oz. of cheese, total
• 1 cup (8 oz) half-n-half
• olive oil (about a tablespoon)
• a couple big cloves of garlic
• kosher salt
• black pepper
• ground cumin
• hot sauce (optional)
• cayenne (optional)
• lime juice (optional)

Supplies:

• Large skillet
• Small sauce pan
• Large pot with a tight-fitting lid

Begin by making the rice. Boil three cups of water in the large pot, add your rice, stir about a minute, cover, and reduce the heat to low. Set a kitchen timer for 20 minutes.

Put a splash of olive oil in your skillet and set it on the stove over medium-high heat. While it heats, cut your onion half in half. Set the pieces in the skillet ring-side-down so they begin to caramelize and release their flavor into the oil. While they’re cooking, go ahead and mince the garlic. After the onions have cooked about two minutes, add the minced garlic and give it a stir for about 15 seconds, then add your beans and about half a cup of water (4 oz). The water will help the beans heat evenly, prevent them from burning, distribute all your flavors, and provide a nice sauce once you’re done. Let them heat through for a couple minutes, then reduce the heat to simmer. Stir in a generous pinch of salt, a couple grinds of pepper, and a generous sprinkle of cumin. Give the mix a taste. If it doesn’t taste enough like food from your favorite Mexican restaurant, sprinkle in a little more cumin. At this point you could also add some cayenne pepper for heat and a splash of lime juice to bring a little brightness to the mix.

Note: as you finish out the remaining ingredients, keep tasting your beans. If too much of the water simmers out, the flavors will become too concentrated and the beans will get dry. If you need to, feel free to add an extra splash or two of water. Also, feel free to doctor the ingredients as you go. Don’t be afraid to play!

When there’s about a minute left on the timer, heat your tortillas (I use the microwave) and store them in a clean tea towel (paper towels will do just fine). Then set the remaining sauce pot on the stove over medium heat and add your half-n-half.

When the timer beeps, pull the rice off the burner, give it a stir, put the lid back on and set the rice aside. Begin sloooooowly adding the cheese to the half-n-half, a big pinch at a time, and give one or two stirs with each addition. After you’ve added all the cheese, stir slowly and smoothly until it’s blended to a sauce.

To serve, spoon rice and beans into a tortilla, set it on a plate and smother with cheese sauce. Bask in your family’s loving gaze and applause.

This past Saturday afforded me such luxury, and I took a few selfish minutes to cook up a four-egg omelet for one.  I had a busy day ahead and needed my strength (plus, grilled onions, bacon, and cheddar cheese–I get selfish when faced with pure deliciousness).

Ingredients (serves one, two, if you have a side item)
2 strips of bacon, diced
1/4 medium onion, diced
1/4 red bell pepper, diced
4 eggs, beaten
grated cheddar cheese (to taste, but you’re probably going to want a quarter-cup)
kosher salt
ground black pepper

Note: you’ll also want a good non-stick pan (trust me on this one.  Non-stick pans are perfect for cooking eggs, and this is no exception)

Technique
dice

Method
low heat

First, set out four eggs. Let them warm a bit. Eggs closer to room temperature cook more evenly and more predictably than cold ones. So set out the eggs and brew your coffee. Then place the bacon in a cold skillet and set the skillet on a burner, medium heat.  Let the pan come to temperature.  When the bacon begins to sizzle, let it go for about a minute, then add the diced onion.  Stir occasionally for three minutes or so, then add the bell pepper.  Stir occasionally for another five minutes. You can also use this time to beat the eggs. Once the onion has gone translucent and browned a bit, the bacon has crisped some and the peppers are soft, remove all the ingredients to a bowl.

Place the pan back on the heat and add the eggs.  Leave them be.  If you need to, swirl the pan gently so the eggs cover the bottom completely, then let them cook a while, approximately four minutes.

What to look for: the gentle heat should prevent the bottom from burning.  The omelet will be ready to fill and fold when the eggs on the top achieve a jelly-like consistency in just a thin layer above a pale, custardy layer.  Now it’s time to fill the omelet.

Place 1/3 the filling ingredients near the center of the omelet, but slightly off center and top with half the cheese.  With a rubber spatula, fold over the right third of the omelet, then the left third (or vice-versa, depending).  Working quickly, slide the omelet to a plate and top with the remaining bacon, onion, pepper and cheese.  If you let it stand for another 30 seconds, the eggs inside will heat through and firm up, and you’ll be able to enjoy your perfect omelet with the sun streaming in through the living room windows and the sounds of a house waking into itself around you.

What the hell happened?

I’m not entirely sure.  I’ve been cooking and mostly loving my time in the kitchen, but I haven’t had the luxury of time to write it all down.  Part of it is a new photography project I’m working on.  Sorting and processing photos is surprisingly time-intensive, but relaxing and not as mentally strenuous as writing.  Writing’s hard work, and I just don’t have the energy for more than a few scrawled notes in the evening.  And I don’t have time in the mornings.

My son’s been waking early.  The time I normally devoted to writing up blog posts, from 5:30 to 6:00, is now spent laughing and bouncing and tickling and reading.  And given that choice, the blog’s going to lose every time.  Sorry, but it’s true.

So that’s that?  Well, not entirely.  As I adjust to the new time schedules, I’ll fit the blog posts in when I can, and I’ll try to get back in the habit of writing on Sunday afternoons or something.  Rather, cooking Saturday and spending a couple hours Sunday morning to capture it, keyboard to screen.  Until then, maybe we can talk about last week’s dinners, the failures and successes.  The surprise winner of the week? Arugula. Seriously.

Sunday- I have no idea what I made for dinner a week ago.  I would have to find my menu plan and shopping list, and I can’t right now.  They might have ended up in the recycling.

Monday-I teach Monday nights and my wife and daughter are left to fend for themselves like some kind of woeful pioneer family. I think they had a California style pizza that was delicious.

Tuesday-Lentil soup with spinach, then Parmesan orzo with garlic bread

An utter tragedy.  Not that anything tasted bad.  The lentils were made with three cups of water and a generous sprinkle of kosher salt.  I added the spinach at 20 minutes and allowed it to wilt down a bit before serving.  The orzo I made with arborio rice, white wine, kosher salt, water and Parmesan cheese, and it cooked up delicious and creamy.  But I managed my time poorly, and I took two times longer than expected to cook dinner.

Wednesday-Frozen pizzas: roasted vegetable and margarita.

I love my wife. After Tuesday’s fiasco she figured I could use a break from the kitchen.  It had been a hectic week and it was only Wednesday.  So she stuck some pizzas in the oven, they were ready when I walked in the door and it was the best mid-week present ever.

Thursday-tofu pad thai noodles and something forgettable

Average. Completely.

Friday-Flat iron steak with a simple arugula salad (so good!) and a top-notch Spanish wine I’d been saving since Christmas

Since my daughter went vegetarian we haven’t been eating a lot of meat.  I will sometimes roast a chicken and make my daughter a helping of tofu for her meal’s protein, but for the most part we’ve gone vegetarian too.  Friday my wife and I ate alone, and it was great.

Salad dressing on the arugula? Two parts extra virgin olive oil to one part lemon juice; a sprinkling of salt; toss.  The peppery taste of the arugula was the perfect compliment for the steak and the dressing provided just enough salt and acidity.

The wine was amazing.

Saturday- broccoli and cheddar soup

Good, but it was decided the potato leek soup is the best and this comes in second.  In my defense, the potato leek soup was seasoned perfectly and this batch of broccoli soup was not.

Sunday- black bean burritos with white cheese sauce

Given the choice I think we might eat this every night.

Begin with the rice

When the rice is done, combine a couple large spoonfuls of rice and beans in a tortilla, wrap, plate and drench in cheese sauce.  If you want, you can top with salsa, taco or hot sauce (or any combination).  Just an amazing, simple meal that comes together in about 20 minutes.