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	<title>Kitchen Sojourn &#187; butter</title>
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	<description>A brief stay in the kitchen can lead to a life of good health</description>
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		<title>The strawberries&#8217; second season</title>
		<link>http://kitchensojourn.com/2009/01/the-strawberries-second-season/</link>
		<comments>http://kitchensojourn.com/2009/01/the-strawberries-second-season/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 26 Jan 2009 01:41:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Greg Turner</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[butter]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[milk]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pan fry]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[salt]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[slice]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[strawberry]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[French toast]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[recipe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[strawberries]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://kitchensojourn.com/?p=195</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The strawberries’ second season arrived. We’re lucky that way, in Florida. If not for our poor soil, I imagine we’d give California a solid run in the agriculture department. As it stands, we do all right. Nearly 365 days of seasonal fruits and vegetables, though July seems too hot for many things. Most people face [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/gregturner/3227448918/" title="French toast with macerated strawberries by greg.turner, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3413/3227448918_39bf4cbb6f.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="French toast with macerated strawberries" /></a>
<p>The strawberries’ second season arrived.  We’re lucky that way, in Florida.  If not for our poor soil, I imagine we’d give California a solid run in the agriculture department.  As it stands, we do all right.  Nearly 365 days of seasonal fruits and vegetables, though July seems too hot for many things. Most people face dearth in Winter.  Bone cold, ice and snow send seeds to hibernation.  Here we face summer’s brutal heat, the land parched and baked, though humidity sometimes stands over one hundred percent.  Storm clouds gather over concrete then blow out to sea, bellies fat with rain.</p>
<p>The rest of the year, however, we enjoy bounty.  Green beans year-round.  Watermelons in November, sweet corn in December.  And in January?  Fresh strawberries from Plant City.</p>
<p><strong>French toast with fresh macerated strawberries</strong></p>
<p><span class="ingredients"><strong>Ingredients (serves 4)</strong><br />
<em>the toast</em><br />
1 high quality French baguette, a day old</p>
<p><span class="ingredients"><em>the custard</em><br />2 eggs<br />
1 1/3 cup milk<br />
1/2 teaspoon vanilla<br />
1 teaspoon cinnamon<br />
2 teaspoon brown sugar<br />
sprinkle of salt<br />
4 tablespoons butter, separated</span><br />
<span class="ingredients"><em>the topping</em><br />
16 medium strawberries, sliced thin<br />
4 (+4) teaspoons brown sugar<br />
Confectioner’s sugar</span></p>
<p><span class="technique"><strong>Technique</strong><br />macerate<br />
slice</span></p>
<p><span class="method"><strong>Method</strong><br />
Pan fry (yes, that&#8217;s really what you&#8217;re doing)</span></p>
<div id="recipe">
<p>Slice the baguette on a bias, each slice about a half-inch thick, and set them aside.  In a shallow container, like a glass pie dish, crack the eggs, add the milk and other custard ingredients, and mix the ingredients together with a fork.  Make sure all the ingredients are well integrated.  Egg beaten, cinnamon dispersed and the kitchen smelling slightly of vanilla.</p>
<p>Once the custard is ready, place a pan on a burner set to just above medium.  Let the pan heat a while.  It’s important the pan be up to temperature but not too hot.  You want to make sure the French toast heats all the way through, the custard cooks, and each piece browns nicely.   Go ahead and set the oven for 200 degrees while you’re at it.</p>
<p>While you’re waiting for the pan to heat, put the strawberry slices in a bowl, sprinkle with four tablespoons of brown sugar and heat about 30 seconds in the microwave.  Once heated, stir the strawberries with a spoon.  The sugar crystals will tear some of the strawberry cells, and the juice will mix with the sugar to create what is, essentially, a simple syrup.  Dip a pinky into the mix and taste.  If it’s not sweet enough for you, begin adding additional brown sugar until you reach your own sweetness ideal.  Continue heating and stirring until you have a nice mix of syrup, in-tact strawberry slices and other pieces that have been reduced and are more like the bits in jam.  Once it’s all done, cover to retain the heat.</p>
<p>Put a tablespoon of butter in the pan on the stove.  It should melt immediately.</p>
<p>Set your bread slices in the custard mix and count to thirty.  Flip them and count again.  You want to make sure the mixture has a chance to work its way through the bread’s cells and crannies and nooks, filling air pockets with new pockets of pure deliciousness.  I like five slices per serving because they can be arranged in a nice star pattern, once you’re ready to plate.</p>
<p>Once the slices have soaked, set them in the buttered pan about 2 minutes on the first side, then one minute, 30 seconds on the other.  You want to keep an eye on them, though, as your pan may be hotter or cooler at specific settings.  Remember, you can always cook longer.  You can’t undo burnt French toast.</p>
<p>I doubt you’ll have a pan or pie dish big enough to coat and cook all slices simultaneously.  Go ahead and set the pieces on a cookie sheet and place them in a warm oven.  Once you have all the pieces cooked, it’s time to serve.</p>
<p>To plate, arrange the slices in a star pattern and spoon on the macerated strawberries.  Then sprinkle with confectioner’s sugar for a touch of contrast.</p>
</div>
<p>Could you make this dish with frozen berries?  Sure.  I’ve done it before with blueberries and blackberries.  I’ve also made french toast with fresh blueberries, fresh raspberries and, of course, fresh strawberries.  There is no comparison.  Fresh berries are brighter, sweeter, and more flavorful.  They also don’t suffer from water imbalances as can happen so often with frozen fruit.  No, there’s just something about fresh ingredients.  When you have them, you know for certain.  When they come to you this season, cherish them.  They’re worth it.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
		<title>How to cook vegetarian</title>
		<link>http://kitchensojourn.com/2008/12/how-to-cook-vegetarian/</link>
		<comments>http://kitchensojourn.com/2008/12/how-to-cook-vegetarian/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 29 Dec 2008 19:15:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Greg Turner</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[artichoke]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bake]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[basil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[boil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[broil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[butter]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[chop]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[garlic]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mayonnaise]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mince]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[olive oil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[oregano]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[panko]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[parmesan cheese]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[salt]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[simmer]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[spaghetti]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tomato]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tomato sauce]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pasta]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[recipe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[vegetarian]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://kitchensojourn.com/?p=55</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[On the way back from my in-laws Christmas day, my daughter announced she was officially a vegetarian. My wife and I weren’t surprised. We knew it was coming the day she disavowed bacon, and I’ve been encouraging her since reading Michael Pollan’s &#8220;Farmer In Chief,&#8221; which includes striking information on environmental impact of the US [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>On the way back from my in-laws Christmas day, my daughter announced she was officially a vegetarian.  My wife and I weren’t surprised.  We knew it was coming the day she disavowed bacon, and I’ve been encouraging her since reading Michael Pollan’s &#8220;<a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2008/10/12/magazine/12policy-t.html">Farmer In Chief</a>,&#8221; which includes striking information on environmental impact of the US food industry.  Still, it throws a wrench in my overall plan of learning again how to cook.</p>
<p>To mark the occasion of my daughter’s vegetarian transformation, I wanted to do something special.  An appetizer.  In the past, we’ve enjoyed the frozen spinach artichoke dip produced by <a href=" http://www.fridays.com/retail/frozenfoods.htm">T.G.I. McGuilicutty’s</a> (and yes, I’ve hated myself for it).  Why not do something similar?  Luckily, I’d seen a close recipe in <a href="http://astore.amazon.com/kitchensojourn-20/detail/0743273842">Rocco’s 5 Minute Flavor</a>.  Did I mention how I already hated myself a bit?  Don’t judge.  It was heavily discounted, and there must be some merit, some universal truth in spending $7.95 on a book that lists at  $26.95 by a former chef (he’s just a cook now) who enjoyed one of the most well-publicized and precipitous falls from favor in the public cooking world.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a title="Parmesan artichoke dip by greg.turner, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/gregturner/3146766295/"><img class="aligncenter" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3217/3146766295_8ee5ab3ee8.jpg" alt="Parmesan artichoke dip" width="400" height="400" /></a></p>
<p>And I tell you this: if there is no other recipe in the whole book, the artichoke dip alone is worth the price of admission.</p>
<p><span class="ingredients"><strong>Ingredients</strong> (serves 4)<br />
1 14 oz. can of artichoke hearts, finely chopped (I’m a fan of Virgo.  They’re organicish and inexpensive, which is much more than I can say for Progresso)<br />
3/4 cup mayonnaise (the original recipe suggested low-fat or reduced fat, but that doesn’t quite have the same wonderful unctuous mouth feel as the real stuff)<br />
3 cloves garlic, minced<br />
1 cup parmesan cheese, grated fine<br />
2 tablespoons fresh basil, chopped fine (yes, fresh counts here.  I wouldn’t dare use the dry stuff for this recipe)<br />
1/2 cup panko bread crumbs (this is my addition, for color and some texture)<br />
1 fine French baguette</span></p>
<p><span class="technique">Technique<br />
<a href="http://kitchensojourn.com/techniques/#mince">Mince</a><br />
<a href="http://kitchensojourn.com/techniques/#chopfine">Chop, fine</a></span></p>
<p><span class="method">Method<br />
<a href="http://kitchensojourn.com/methods/#bake">Bake</a></span></p>
<div id="recipe">
<p>To make the dip, simply combine the artichoke hearts, mayonnaise, garlic, parmesan cheese, and basil in a 8” * 8” baking dish.  Stir them all together then sprinkle the top with the bread crumbs.  Cut the baguette on a bias and arrange the slices on a baking sheet.  Put the sliced bread and the artichoke dip in a 425(degree F) oven for about 5 minutes.  The bread will crisp up and the dip will get nice and bubbly.  Right at the end, zap the dip under the broiler for about 30 seconds to brown the bread crumbs and give them some additional crunch.</p></div>
<p>For the main course, I went with an old standby, spaghetti and tomato sauce with garlic bread.</p>
<p><span class="ingredients"><strong>Ingredients</strong> (serves 4, without being piggish)<br />
For the sauce<br />
1 14.5 oz can diced tomatoes, mostly drained<br />
1  8oz can tomato sauce<br />
four garlic cloves, crushed and copped fine<br />
kosher salt<br />
1 teaspoon dried oregano (or more, to taste)<br />
1/4 cup grated parmesan + 1/4 cup grated parmesan held in reserve</span></p>
<p><span class="ingredients">For the pasta<br />
1 16 oz package of dried spaghetti (duh)<br />
2 level tablespoons kosher salt</span></p>
<p><span class="ingredients">For the garlic bread<br />
3 tablespoons butter<br />
1 tablespoon olive oil<br />
4 cloves garlic, minced<br />
1 loaf of crusty Italian or cu ban bread, cut in half lengthwise</span></p>
<p><span class="technique">Technique<br />
<a href="http://kitchensojourn.com/techniques/#chopfine">Chop, fine</a><br />
<a href="http://kitchensojourn.com/techniques/#mince">Mince</a></span></p>
<p><span class="method">Method<br />
<a href="http://kitchensojourn.com/methods/#boil">Boil</a><br />
<a href="http://kitchensojourn.com/methods/#simmer">Simmer</a><br />
<a href="http://kitchensojourn.com/methods/#broil">Broil</a></span></p>
<div id="recipe">
<p>Fill a 6 qt stock pot with four quarts of water.  Add two level tablespoons of kosher salt and set the water over high heat</p>
<p>While the water is coming to a boil, set a large sauce pan over medium-high heat.  Add a tablespoon of olive oil.  The pan is at temperature when it feels warm to a hand that’s several inches above it.  Add the garlic and let it soften and turn translucent at the edges.  Make sure to keep it moving so it doesn’t burn.</p>
<p><span class="note">note: burned garlic is very bitter and gives a hard, sometimes unpleasant edge to sauces and soups.</span></p>
<p>When the garlic has softened some, add the diced tomatoes and the tomato sauce and stir it all together.  Let the mix come to a boil, then lower the heat to medium-low (low-medium), and allow the sauce to simmer.  Give it a taste and add a little salt, if necessary.</p>
<p>Without any extra ingredients, the sauce will taste very bright and acidic, like a slightly under-ripe tomato.  Add the oregano, stir it in, and taste.  The sauce should taste more mellow now.  Gone is the tannic edge and in its place is a rounder, deeper flavor.  If the sauce still tastes tart, try adding a bit more oregano or a couple grinds of black pepper.  As a last resort, you could add a trace of sugar, but then you might as well have saved yourself the trouble and just bought the jarred stuff at the store, savored its cloying sweetness.</p>
<p>When the sauce tastes good (tasting along the way is the secret to an excellent tomato sauce), slowly stir in 1/4 cup of the Parmesan cheese and then leave it alone.  From here on out, the sauce will take care of itself.</p>
<p>Your water should be boiling now, so go ahead and carefully place your pasta in the pot, give it a stir, and let it go.  Set the timer as directed on the box (I usually go for the lowest suggested time so I don’t inadvertently cook my pasta to mush), and give it a good stir about two minutes into the cooking time.  That’s when the pasta will release most of its starch into the water and thus will be most likely to stick together into a giant spaghetti rope.  Looks cool, but is pretty inedible.<br />
After you’ve given the pasta the second stir, It’s time to toast the garlic bread.  Set a small sauce pan on one of your remaining burners (sorry, <a href="http://well.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/11/20/mark-bittmans-bad-kitchen/ ">Bittman</a>) and bring it to medium-high.  Add the olive oil and butter. When the butter has melted, add the minced garlic.  Don’t let it sit in the pan.  Stir, keep the pan moving and heat the garlic until it begins to go translucent, then use a slotted spoon to remove it from the pan.  Get a brush (or you could just pour it over the bread) and brush the bread with the butter mixture.</p>
<p><span class="note">Note: If you want an extra garlicy touch, reserve the minced garlic to spread on the bread once it’s out of the oven.</span></p>
<p>Stick the bread in the oven under the broiler for about a minute (check it at 45 seconds, just to be safe).  When the bread begins to brown on the edges, take it out.<br />
When the beeper beeps, drain the pasta.</p>
<p>Plate the pasta, cover with a couple spoonfuls of the sauce, and serve with the garlic bread, sliced.  Put the remaining Parmesan cheese on the table so guests can adjust the sauce’s cheesiness to their liking.</p></div>
<p>A good spaghetti sauce is easy to make.  Cook it slow, taste along the way, and add nothing in huge quantities.  Use the best ingredients you can (don’t you dare use off-season tomatoes; go for canned), and keep it simple.  It’s a formula that’s served me well for a long time, evidenced by this exchange:</p>
<blockquote><p><strong>Daughter</strong>: What are we having for dinner?<br />
<strong>Me</strong>: Spaghetti and tomato sauce.<br />
<strong>Daughter</strong>: The stuff you make, or the stuff from a jar?<br />
<strong>Me</strong>: The stuff I make.<br />
<strong>Daughter</strong>: Good.</p></blockquote>
<p>That vote of confidence from a picky eater?  It’s a wonder I don’t make the stuff every night.</p>
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